Bandurria Monumental Archaeological Zone in Huacho (Older Than Caral!)
If you’ve been to Caral-Supe, you’d already know that Caral is an ancient site in Peru that’s about 5,000 years old. Yep, that’s pretty old! But what if I told you that there’s an ancient archaeological site in Lima older than Caral-Supe?
Bandurria Monumental Archaeological Zone in Huacho, or just Bandurria for short, is older than Caral despite being the lesser-known site. Bandurria was named after the Bandurria bird, which used to live in the area. Due to human activities, Bandurria birds no longer live there and have moved away.
I had the opportunity to visit Bandurria Monumental Archaeological Zone in Huacho with a local friend sometime in April 2026. Keep reading as I share more about it.
Older Than Caral-Supe
As mentioned earlier, Bandurria is older than Caral-Supe. But take note that Caral-Supe is known as the oldest ancient city in Peru. Bandurria and Caral-Supe are what my tour guide called “siblings”. Sure, one is older than the other, but they’re related. Bandurria is believed to have started in 3225 a.c, while Caral started in 2625 a.c.
While Caral-Supe was a major urban centre, Bandurria was more like a relaxed urban centre and settlement. Caral was more studied than Bandurria, meaning it’s also more famous. Today, Caral has become the face of the Norte Chico civilisation.
Human Sacrifice
One of the site’s highlights is the plaza where human sacrifices took place.
At the plaza, bones of a young woman (aged between 16 and 20) were found. She was decapitated, and her body was thrown to the east of the plaza. At the centre of the plaza, researchers found lower limbs of a young woman (aged between 16 and 20). On the west side, researchers found legs of a young woman (aged between 16 and 20).
Human sacrifices were practised differently in Peru. Some sacrifices became mummies, with their body parts still intact, while some sacrifices had missing body parts. I prefer to believe that the victims only had their body parts taken apart after they had died. It would be harder to stomach if the truth was otherwise.
Pyramids and Mounds
There are 4 large stepped pyramids as well as 6 smaller mounds. Even though the pyramids are nothing like the Egyptian pyramids – they’re not as big and as complexly structured – they’re still fascinating, and they possess a deep history of the ancient world.
Looking at the structures made me wonder what life was like in this ancient place.
Old Railway
An old railway can still be seen in the area. The railway once crossed the archaeological site in 1911. The construction began in 1909 after a lease was signed with an English company, the Northwestern Railway of Peru. It was the only railway that ran parallel to the coast; it was called the Coastal Railway, with Huacho as its operational base.
The track started in Ancon. By 1960, the Huacho-Barranca track was closed, leading to the closing of the entire railway in 1964.
Bandurria Lagoon
One of Bandurria’s highlights is its swamp and lagoon. The swamp and lagoon are where various resident and migratory bird species – 125 of them – feed and rest.
The lagoon was the tour’s last stop. It’s also where we saw the old railway. I loved the view. It was amazing. I don’t know what sunset is like there, but I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s absolutely gorgeous. The lagoon has a romantic vibe to it. It would be nice to stick around for the sunset. Unfortunately, Bandurria only opens until 4 pm.
The picture below shows what the Bandurria looks like.
Hiring a Guide
Hiring a tour guide is compulsory. I was glad I did. My friend (Cristian) and I really liked our tour guide. Our tour guide, Miguel, was super friendly, kind, and helpful. We learned a lot from him. His dog – a white poodle named Matias – tagged along. He didn’t rush the tour; it was smooth and steady.
Cristian and I were the only visitors that day. Miguel informed us that some days were busier than others. Great. I don’t particularly like crowded places. anyway.
Tipping
Tipping is ideal at the end of the tour. You can give any amount you like. Cristian and I gave 20 soles (10 soles each) to Miguel.
Charges
The entrance fee was cheap. I paid 7 soles in April 2026.
Visitors can also buy souvenirs at the reception. The souvenirs were rather simple, but I bought one anyway. I wanted to support the site as much as possible. Bandurria is quite an underrated attraction, so it doesn’t get as many visitors as many other tourist destinations in Peru.
There’s a public toilet nearby. As far as I can remember, there was no charge to enter. It was clean and well-maintained.
Getting There
To get to Bandurria, you can take a local bus, drive yourself, or hire a driver. Most tourists depart from Lima or from Barranca. I stayed in Barranca as it’s closer to Caral-Supe. After visiting Caral-Supe, I stopped by Bandurria the following day before returning to Lima.
From Lima:
You can take a bus from Plaza Norte in Lima to Huacho or Barranca. Mine was to Barranca because I went to Caral first. The bus I boarded dropped some passengers in the town of Huacho before moving on to Barranca.
If you’re going directly to Huacho from Lima, just get down at the town area where the bus stops. From there, you can get a taxi or mototaxi. I took a taxi from Huacho to Bandurria. Be careful not to get overcharged. Note that many taxis don’t go by meter. Try not to pay more than 10 soles (per person).
From Barranca:
I travelled from Barranca to Huacho for 8 soles via a colectivo. The colectivo stopped me at the Huacho bus terminal. No ride-hailing was available during my visit to Huacho. Cristian and I took a taxi from the Huacho bus terminal for 20 soles (10 soles each). It was a little expensive because the driver said it wasn’t convenient for him to take us all the way there and then drive back to town for less.
Our taxi dropped us at the archaeological site’s main entrance. It took about 1 km on foot from the entrance to the main road. The journey from the main entrance to the reception was only 300 m.
Getting Back to Lima From Bandurria:
If you’re already driving, then the answer is pretty straightforward. But for those travelling by public transport (from the bus station in Huacho, be it by taxi or mototaxi), then getting back to Lima can be a little tricky.
Miguel advised us to get a bus back to Lima from the main road. We stopped Zbus by the roadside. It’s the only one that would stop. Fortunately, Cristian and I didn’t have to wait long. We only waited for 10 minutes before the bus arrived. We paid 20 soles. The bus ended its journey at Plaza Norte.
Alternatively, you can flag down a taxi or mototaxi by the roadside. Then book a bus ticket at the bus terminal. Maybe you don’t want to wait by the roadside alone for too long. Who knows when the next bus will arrive. Waiting alone by the roadside, especially if you’re a woman, can also be dangerous.
What To Do at Bandurria
Enjoy your time and don’t rush through the tour. Ask questions. I recommend Miguel as your guide. He speaks English and Spanish, and he’s very friendly and helpful. I did my tour in Spanish. But Miguel was always kind enough to speak English to me when I couldn’t understand certain things in Spanish.
The tour may take an hour, so if you need to go to the toilet, please do so before the tour begins.
Don’t stray outside the path. Follow the trail. As you enter the main entrance, you will see signs to remind you.
Matias didn’t follow the trail and ran wherever he pleased. The rule didn’t apply to him (well, I guess because he’s a dog), but it applies to all visitors. If you drop something outside of the trail, seek help from your guide. Also, do not litter. Following rules is paramount for maintaining order and preservation.
If you’re coming by car, you can drive from the main entrance to the reception and park your car at the designated parking lot.
Do I Recommend Visiting Bandurria?
I highly recommend visiting Bandurria, especially if you’re already planning to visit Caral-Supe, which is about 40 minutes to an hour away. While it’s not as popular as Caral-Supe – and the visit duration is much shorter – Bandurria is still worth visiting. Think of the nice lagoon view! Most visitors really loved it.
Furthermore, visiting Bandurria is generally much more relaxing than Caral-Supe. I won’t forget how hot Caral-Supe was in April. Even with long sleeves and a hat, I felt like a shrimp in an air fryer. At Bandurria, it’s much cooler thanks to its location – directly on the coast.
Suppose you have to choose between Caral-Supe and Bandurria; which one should you choose? Well, it depends on what you want to achieve. Between the two ruins, do you want to see something older than Caral or the most ancient city in South America? I’d say go for Caral-Supe.
But if you could do both, please do. Spend the night in Barranca so that you can have an extra no-rush day for Bandurria. Otherwise, you could cram both attractions in one day, provided that you start your trip early.
Overall, I enjoyed my visit to Bandurria. I hope more people will visit it, too.