Franz ElizStorytime!
Let’s go back to the time I took my first trip to one of Sarawak’s most famous national parks, Bako National Park. I flew to Sarawak after work to join my friends Eric and Raul at the national park over the weekend. Eric is from the U.S. and Raul is from Mexico.
A brief on Bako National Park: The national park, which was founded in 1957, is home to some of the world’s most amazing forests and wildlife. Despite its small size, the Bako National Park did not fail to amaze us (and travellers worldwide) with its beauty and authenticity.
Our trip to Bako National Park was a quick one. At least, we spent a night there, giving us more time for exploration. My next trip (later in 2020) was just a half-day trip. Now, keep reading as I’ll share my first experience at this lovely Borneo treasure.
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Getting to Bako National Park from Kuching
Since my friends arrived in Sarawak earlier than I did, they spent some time exploring Kuching. After finishing work on a Friday, I spent the night at my parents’ place before meeting my friends the following day.
Eric and Raul met me in town (Merdeka Plaza was a convenient location) at about 10 a.m. We wanted to start our day early so we’d have more time at the national park. I was very happy to see them again.
Travellers Can Take a Bus, Van, or Taxi From the City Centre
Before starting our journey, we did a quick research on Bako National Park. We weren’t sure how to get there. Fortunately, we found a lot of the information we needed from the Bako National Park’s official website.
We learned that we’d have to take a boat from the Bako jetty first. To get there, we could take a bus, taxi, or a local van from the Kuching open-air market. The bus was the cheapest option among the three.
In 2016, a one-way bus fare was RM3.50. The van would’ve cost RM5 per way, while a one-way taxi ride would’ve cost us about RM45 per ride. Since we were travelling on a budget, we opted for the cheapest option.
Note that short-distance bus rides in Sarawak are now RM1, including the ones to Bako National Park. Instead of taxis, you can opt for ride services like Grab.
Be careful when looking for transportation around the open-air market. You might come across van and taxi drivers who will try to convince you to take their vans or taxis. These drivers tried to rip us off but failed.
The Bus Ride May Take an Hour
Our bus ride from the Kuching open-air to Bako National Park took almost an hour. It would’ve been slightly longer if there had been bad traffic. The driver stopped us at a boat jetty. To get to the park, we needed to board a boat. Before departure, we bought ourselves some lunch and mineral water.
Some People May Find the Transportation Expensive
In September 2016, the price of the entrance ticket to Bako National Park was just RM10 (for Malaysians). A return boat ride for Malaysians was RM15. Since I’m Malaysian, I only spent RM25 on my transportation.
However, each of my non-Malaysian friends had to pay RM20 for their entrance tickets and RM45 for return boat rides. We thought RM45 for the return boat ride was quite expensive. What do you think?
The entrance ticket prices are still the same. However, boat ride prices are different now. It costs RM30 per person in a shared boat for Malaysians and RM40 per person for foreigners. Alternatively, visitors can charter a boat for about RM200, depending on its size.
I believed my friends were just joking when they said they were going to swim from the Bako jetty to the national park. It’s not possible for people to get to the national park by swimming. Firstly, they wouldn’t be able to go through the jetty for free. Secondly, there are crocodiles near Bako National Park, so swimming is a risky business I’d say. Finally, the journey by boat alone already takes 15–20 minutes.
Fun Boat Ride and Arrival
It took us 15 minutes to get to Bako National Park. The ride was bumpy but fun. When we arrived at the shore, we removed our shoes and jumped into the shallow water. This was the first photo captured upon our arrival at the island.
As we approached the reception, we were greeted by macaques and Bornean bearded pigs near the beach. Great, we just saw wild animals upon arrival. The not-so-fun part was when one of the macaques tried to steal our food. Bad monkey!
Reminder: Keep your food not only from monkeys but also from the pigs. These animals can get quite aggressive if they’re determined enough to take food from you.
Registration, Reservation, and Short Briefing
We walked towards the reception to register ourselves. The reception is not far from the beach. There weren’t many people at the time despite being the weekend. Perhaps most of them arrived early. People usually start their trip very early as they typically do day trips.
We Registered Ourselves and Stored Our Things Before Exploring
Before exploring, all visitors are required to register at the park’s reception office. So, we did exactly that. The staff then explained to us about the trails we could explore. Some parks were probably closed at the time.
Afterwards, we informed her that we wanted to camp. She told us that the camping fee was RM15. I believed that was for all three of us – RM5 per person to camp. I was surprised because I thought it was free. Then again, why did I expect it to be free in the first place? Since it’s a national park, it makes sense that the campsite isn’t free.
Camping is cheaper than staying in a chalet or hostel. We could’ve stayed in the park’s hostels, but they were all occupied.
4 Hours Were Enough To Cover Three Trails
Before we started hiking, we kept our things in the park’s storage room. We didn’t have to pay any fee for the storage.
The park’s staff also reminded us to carry enough water. So, we bought a few bottles of mineral water beforehand. Looking back at my second trip to Bako National Park in 2020 (in which I ran out of water while hiking), I thought back about what the park’s staff told me in 2016.
It was already 2 p.m. when we were ready to set off. The receptionist reminded us to be back at the headquarters by 6 p.m. to set up our tent. Four hours of hiking only? We later learned that four hours were enough for us to cover three trails. Note that we took our time. We didn’t rush. Had we rushed, we could’ve probably done more walks.
Discovering the Different Trails in Bako National Park
Bako National Park offers many exciting trails. However, my friends and I only managed to visit a few. Several trails were under maintenance. We went to 3 trails: Telok Paku, Telok Delima, and Telok Pandan Besar.
We were advised by the staff to visit Telok Paku and Telok Delima to find the famous proboscis monkeys. I presume that it’s the only monkey species in the world that has a long nose, a big belly, and a pair of long, slim legs.
The Story Behind Proboscis Monkeys
Fun fact: Do you know that proboscis monkeys are called ‘Monyet Belanda’ in Malaysia and Indonesia? The direct translation for it is Dutch Monkey.
There’s a reason behind the name. It’s believed that the indigenous people in Borneo probably noticed the similarities between the monkeys and the Dutch colonisers in the area: tall and with big bellies and long noses. To add to the story, the Dutch love the colour orange. What a coincidence.
Long-Tailed Macaques and Silvered-Leaf Monkeys in Telok Paku
We didn’t see any proboscis monkeys at Telok Paku. Instead, we found a group of long-tailed macaques and silvered-leaf monkeys. They were so adorable! It took us about an hour to reach Telok Paku. Had we walked faster, we could’ve done it for even less.
We didn’t want to rush, so we took our time and just enjoyed our surroundings. Raul was busy photographing lizards, monkeys, and frogs. Along the way, we came across a low-tide area with many crab marks.
Telok Paku was great. There was nothing much to do there apart from enjoying its breathtaking landscape and ocean view. There were many macaques lingering around the area that attempted to steal our things.
Tip: Your chances of seeing proboscis monkeys are higher during the late afternoon. You might also be able to see more animals in the jungle if you try to stay as quiet as possible.
Red-Tongue Snakes
After exploring Telok Paku, we took a short rest at the park’s headquarters, bought more drinks for our next journey, and also took our stuff. Later, Raul stumbled upon a non-venomous red-tongue snake near the public toilet.
I was very happy to see the snake as I had never seen one until my first visit to Bako National Park. The snake was beautiful. It was already 5 p.m. when we spotted the snake. I supposed it was out there looking for food. There was probably more than one red-tongue snake there.
After releasing the snake, we headed off to Telok Delima. It was the perfect time to see the proboscis monkeys as sunset was quickly approaching.
Proboscis Monkeys in Telok Delima
We saw the monkeys, finally. Raul’s friends happened to be there, too. The proboscis monkeys moved very quickly. So, I didn’t get a clear look at them. However, I could see their big orange bellies! Raul spent about 30 minutes photographing them. I bet he could do that even longer.
We came across several species of lizards in the jungle. The common ones found in the Bako National Park are the Crested Lizards. As usual, Raul took his sweetest time photographing whatever he found interesting along the way. He’s a biologist, so that explains why.
Like Telok Paku, Telok Delima fed our eyes with a wonderful ocean view. It was still low tide. As we walked along the beach, we tried not to step on the cast of crabs that was on the beach. The crabs were everywhere!
While Raul was busy photographing the ocean, Eric made himself comfortable on one of the beach’s rocks. He sat on one that looked like a chair.
At sunset, we knew it was almost time to go. But we didn’t want to leave without taking memorable shots of the beautiful sunset.
Before leaving, we accidentally found a beautiful spot that looked almost like a cave. It seemed like a great spot to relax for a little while, especially on a hot day.
It was already very dark when we left the beach. Luckily, we had torch lights. The way back can be quite confusing. Two of Raul’s friends got a little lost. Luckily, they had their smartphones for lighting.
Tip: Make sure to have a reliable light source for your jungle trip. While smartphones can also act as torch lights, their batteries can easily drain, especially when they’re also used for other tasks like taking pictures and videos.
Looking for Frogs at Night
Raul, Eric, and I didn’t go back to camp right away, though. We went looking for frogs.
It was my first time looking for frogs in the middle of the jungle at night. The jungle felt creepy at first, but I got the hang of it eventually. Even though the activity was fun, I started to feel very tired and annoyed. My feet were killing me. Since I didn’t wear proper shoes, my feet were aching so much. Lesson learned: don’t hike for hours in slippers.
All of us decided to leave after about 30 minutes. Right before leaving, we found this little fella!
After photographing this little fella, we headed back to the headquarters to have our dinner and set up our tent.
Basic Camping Facilities
It only costs RM5 to camp in Bako National Park. While it’s an option, it’s best to stay in a hostel or chalet if you can. The campground was very basic and lacked maintenance. It’s probably still the same today. To get a slot, you’ll need to make your booking at the reception office, not online.
When we got there, there was only one traveller at the campsite. As soon as she noticed us entering the campground, she greeted us. I could imagine how cautious she must have felt at the time. The area was very dark and quiet, after all.
Planning on camping in Bako National Park? Here are some tips:
- Bring cash. The fee for camping a night at the national park is RM5. In case you can’t pay with a card, at least you’ll have your cash ready.
- Set up your tent before nightfall. The camping zone is very dark and there are no lampposts around. Sure, you can use torch lights for lighting, but it’s not convenient.
- Wake up at 6 a.m. You’ll want to leave before the macaques pay you a visit. According to the park’s ranger, the park’s macaques won’t hesitate to create trouble at the campsite.
- Be careful when accessing the public toilet. There is a public toilet and shower in the camping zone. You’ll want to be careful when using the facilities because, in the end, you’re in a jungle. You might come across wild animals.
Would I Recommend Bako National Park?
I would recommend Bako National Park to anyone who enjoys exploring nature and is especially interested in seeing proboscis monkeys. There are also many rare species at the national park, from mammals to reptiles.
Provided that you spend a longer time in Bako National Park, you might be able to encounter many exciting animals, including Hairy-Nosed otters, Wagler’s Pit vipers, and flying lizards. It might be worth spending a night or two at the national park to increase your chances of spotting more animals, especially nocturnal ones.
Is It Worth Visiting?
I think visiting Bako National Park is worth it. It’s one of the attractions in Sarawak that is easier to access. The only downside is some might find a trip to the national park very expensive.
Some people didn’t enjoy Bako National Park probably because they didn’t spend enough time at the national park. Also, getting scammed by boatmen (which sometimes happens) worsens the experience. Some of the park’s facilities also are in need of more maintenance. For some, these reasons are enough to leave a bitter taste in their mouths.
To avoid disappointments, I recommend travellers to do some research prior to visiting the national park. I also suggest spending at least one night at the national park if possible. That way, you increase your chances of seeing the animals you aim to see. It might be helpful to get a guide, too. Klook offers tours to Bako National Park, so do check them out.
Final Thoughts
Did I enjoy Bako National Park? Yes, absolutely. I enjoyed it a lot so I decided to revisit it in 2020. However, there were still several trails that were closed.It would be nice to be able to explore the trails I have yet to visit.
