Franz ElizIn 2010, my friends and I flew to Sabah to visit Sandakan and Kota Kinabalu.
I would like to thank my friend Jenna and her family for hosting me in Sandakan. It’s always nice to explore somewhere new with a local!
In this article, I’ll share my experiences at the places I explored with my friends. These cities have likely experienced many changes in the last 12 years. Even so, the places mentioned in this article are still around, so do check them out when you visit Sabah.
A Quick Overview of Sandakan and Kota Kinabalu
Sandakan, which means ‘The place that was pawned’ in the Suluk language, was named by a Scottish arms smuggler from Glasgow named William Clark Cowie. It became one of the largest towns in Sabah before WWII.
Sandakan was once called “Little Hong Kong” due to the migration of Chinese from Hong Kong, mainly Cantonese and Hakka.
On the other hand, Kota Kinabalu was formerly known as ‘Jesselton’ and is the capital of Sabah. Also known as ‘KK’ locally and internationally, Kota Kinabalu is a popular destination in Sabah thanks to its beautiful islands, sea view, great weather, and wonderful local cuisine.
Local attractions in Sandakan
Sandakan is home to some of Sabah’s historical places. The following were the places my friends and I visited:
Tanah Merah Hilltop
The Tanah Merah Hilltop was the first local attraction I visited with my friends. Tanah Merah literally means ‘Red Hill’ in the Malay language.
From where I was standing, I could see the sea. The water was crystal clear.
Many people visit this hilltop to enjoy its awesome panoramic view apart from performing religious duties. Although I enjoyed the scenery, I didn’t stay long due to the hot weather.
Tips when visiting Tanah Merah Hilltop:
- Don’t forget to take your sun lotion with you. It can get very hot in the afternoon, especially in May, which is Sandakan’s driest month. Note that the average temperature is 27.1 °C (80.8 °F).
- Wear decent clothes. This is a common rule when visiting religious places. But I made the mistake of wearing mini shorts. I should’ve had a scarf on hand so I could’ve covered my legs. I recommend wearing trousers that can easily be rolled up or folded.
- Bring an umbrella or a raincoat. The weather is unpredictable. It was very hot when we arrived, but it started drizzling afterwards.
- Catch the sunset in the evening. You might want to do this if you have the chance to visit the hill in the evening and you want to take beautiful sunset pictures.
Puu Jih Shih Buddhist Temple
After we visited the Tanah Merah hilltop, we went to Puu Jih Shih Buddhist Temple. We took many beautiful photos there.
Since Buddhism has quite a strong influence in Asia, it’s not surprising to see many temples, even in Malaysia, where most people are Muslims.
I really admire the architecture of the Puu Jih Shih Buddhist temple – Chinese carvings and dragon symbols are everywhere. You can find many statues there, including a big drum.
The temple was officiated by the Chief Minister at the time, YAB Datuk Joseph Pairin Kitingan, on September 26, 1987.
Fun fact: The Puu Jih Shih Buddhist Temple appeared on the 2013 Amazing Race 4.
Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre
In the afternoon, my friends and I made our way to the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre. The centre was established in 1964, dedicated especially to Orangutan orphans. It was upgraded soon after and has since become a tourist attraction.
The centre aims to educate the public about Orangutans, the only species of great apes outside Africa. Sadly, these apes are now endangered species. Their habitat is slowly destroyed by deforestation.
There’s an entrance fee for entering the centre, as follows:
- Adult: RM5 (Malaysian); RM30 (non-Malaysian)
- 17 years old and under: RM2 (Malaysia) RM15 (non-Malaysian)
On top of that is an RM10 charge for using cameras, camcorders, smartphone cameras, etc.
Witnessing the Man of the Forest
The term Orangutans means ‘Man of the forest’.
I was fascinated by how human-like Orangutans are. Not surprising, considering they share 96% DNA similarities with us, after all. Today, you can find many videos of Orangutans showing off their skills, from cutting wood to driving.
Male Orangutans have an arm span of 2.25 m and wide cheek pads. A male can weigh up to 144 kg.
These tree-dwelling creatures enjoy swinging from tree to tree. So when you visit the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre, you’ll likely see them doing this.
Feeding Time is the Centre’s Highlight
The centre’s main gate opens from 8 a.m to 5 p.m. Make sure to stay around for the Orangutan’s feeding time. The morning feeding time is at 10 a.m, whereas the afternoon one is at 3 p.m.
Feeding time doesn’t always mean you’ll get to see many Orangutans coming down from the trees to eat on the feeding platform. My friends and I only saw two Orangutans feeding at the time. Even so, watching the two munching on bananas was a great sight.
It’s Best To Keep Your Distance
After the feeding session, we were told that the Orangutans would be swinging around the forest. The rangers advised everyone to be extra careful when exploring the area and not to get too close to the Orangutans upon seeing one. Also, there was a fight between the Orangutans before we left, as far as I could remember.
Generally, Orangutans aren’t aggressive towards people but would attack when threatened.
St Michael and All Angels Church
One of the most beautiful places of worship in Sabah is St Michael and All Angels Church.
The Anglican church was closed when we were there. Since we didn’t get to go inside, we just spent our time outside on the grass.
Fun fact: It took almost 30 years for the church to be completed. The church was designed by a man from New Zealand named Mr B.W Mountfort.
Ironwood, bricks and stones were used to form the building. The Australians donated the church’s stained glass windows to commemorate the 60th anniversary of the end of WWII.
Agnes Newton Keith Home
We stopped by the Agnes Newton Keith Home. It’s a small house where the famous American writer Agnes Keith, who wrote the book Land Below the Wind, lived with her family. Today, the house is a museum, where some of Agnes’ belongings are still kept.
There’s a beautiful garden just outside where you can relax and take pictures.
By visiting this attraction, you can imagine life during the colonial era and explore what life was like for Agnes Keith and her family.
St. Mary’s Cathedral
From the Anglican church, we moved on to St. Mary’s Cathedral Catholic Church nearby.
The St. Mary’s Cathedral was established in the 19th century. It was taken care of by the Mill Hill Fathers and Sisters at the time. The church looks rather quaint, yet it’s unique in its own way.
When it was first set up, it was just an attap shed. But in 1961, it was transformed into one of the most beautiful buildings in Sandakan.
Sandakan Crocodile Farm
We had the chance to see huge crocodiles at the Sandakan Crocodile Farm. Although the trip wasn’t boring, it was quite sad to see the crocodiles unable to swim freely. Looking back at it, I try to avoid going to such places whenever possible.
Note: Crocodiles get captured for different reasons. They usually get captured when they appear as a threat to local communities or after they’ve attacked someone.
You’ll see other animals at the farm as well. We saw ostriches, small birds, macaques, etc. Like the crocodiles, these animals don’t get much space to roam. That said, the Sandakan Crocodile Farm may not be everyone’s cup of tea.
Later in the late afternoon, we had the chance to watch a crocodile show. The size of the crocodile was impressive. But it was hard to enjoy the show when all I could think about was the worst possible situation that could happen between the crocodile and the stunt man.
Did you know? The Sandakan Crocodile Farm is the largest farm of its kind in Malaysia. It has over 3,000 reptiles. The crocodiles were found along the Kinabatangan river and then farmed for their skins.
Sandakan War Memorial Park
The Sandakan War Memorial is one of the must-visit places in Sandakan. It was built to remember the prisoners of war who were sent to the camp and died during the Sandakan Death Marches. The park was also built in memory of the people who died during their march to Ranau.
My friends and I visited the park on our own. We didn’t have a guide. Had we had one, we could probably learn more about the park.
Exploring the park may take more than an hour, so do bring enough water (or an umbrella if you want) as the weather can get very hot. I recommend wearing comfortable travel sandals or shoes. There are stairs at the park that can get slippery when it rains.
Food Hunting in Sandakan
The food in Sandakan is delicious, especially the seafood. I had Chinese-style steamed fish. It was very good.
Other popular dishes in Sandakan:
- Seafood fried noodle
- Marble cheesecake
- Bak Kut Teh
Restaurants you might want to check out:
- Sandakan Curry House
- Habeeb Restaurant
- Imperial Bay View
- Tomato Sandakan
- Ocean King Seafood Restaurant
Exploring Kota Kinabalu
After our Sandakan trip, we made our way to Kota Kinabalu. The journey was fun. It took about 7 hours by bus.
Along the way, we passed by many local villages and enjoyed the wonderful local panorama. The journey got even more interesting as the bus drove up the hills. The road was windy and bumpy. We felt the cool air of the mountains.
We arrived in Kota Kinabalu at 2 p.m. After checking into our hotel, we quickly dressed up for our next exploration. The weather was just as hot as the weather in Sandakan.
Visit Local Markets and Malls
We went to many places, including the Sunday market. I bought many souvenirs for my friends and family, such as fridge magnets and postcards. When visiting KK, you should explore the flea and street markets, where you can see many locals and tourists do their shopping.
Some of the well-known markets are:
- Gaya Street Sunday Market
- Filipino Market
- Metro Town Weekend Market
- Night Market
Tip: Be sure to compare prices to avoid paying for overpriced goods.
My friends and I also went to One Borneo Hypermall, the largest mall in Borneo. It’s huge, housing stores selling branded and imported clothes such as FCUK, Levi’s, Body Gloves, and many more. We took the mall’s free shuttle, so travelling to the mall was easy.
The following are other malls you can also visit in Kota Kinabalu:
- Imago Shopping Mall
- Centre Point Sabah
- Suria Sabah
- Jesselton Duty-free
Walk Along the Kota Kinabalu City Waterfront
Kota Kinabalu is famous for its beautiful sea view. So make sure you take a stroll along the city’s waterfront to enjoy the view of its ocean and bright sun.
Some people complain about the smell and trash at the waterfront, but don’t let this stop you from exploring the area. To enjoy the waterfront is to enjoy Kota Kinabalu. No place is perfect, and hopefully, the local authorities will put more effort into ensuring the city stays clean for both locals and tourists.
Enjoy the Nightlife
At night, we went to a local bar to enjoy a couple of drinks and the nightlife. Many bands that perform in Malaysia are from the Philippines. The band that performed that night was entertaining. They even made me and Jenna sing on stage. It was an unforgettable moment indeed.
The following are a few of Kota Kinabalu’s popular bars:
- The Shamrock Irish Bar
- Cowboy Bar KK
- Mynt Club
- Tamu Rooftop
Are Sandakan and Kota Kinabalu Worth Visiting?
I highly recommend anyone, especially first-timers, to visit Sandakan and Kota Kinabalu upon their visit to Sabah.
At Sandakan, not only can you enjoy its beautiful sea view but also learn about the war events that took place there. Sandakan was where many of the 2,500 allied war prisoners of WWII were tortured, left to starve and die from diseases.
Kota Kinabalu, known as Jesselton then, wasn’t free from the Japanese occupation during WWII, either. Today, Kota Kinabalu is a peaceful place that attracts tourists worldwide, especially those who wish to climb Southeast Asia’s tallest mountain, Mount Kinabalu. The mountain is in Ranau, but most travellers would stop by KK before heading to the Kinabalu National Park.
Sandakan and Kota Kinabalu are absolutely worth visiting.
Consider Doing Island Hopping
When I returned to Sabah in 2021 with my friend Jess, I had the chance to stop by Kota Kinabalu. The plan was to do some island hopping. Unfortunately, that didn’t happen due to a change of plan. Well, next time, then!
But if you plan to visit the islands near KK, here are some of my local friend’s recommendations:
- Gaya Island
- Sapi Island
- Mamutik and Manukan Islands
- Sepanggar Island
- Pulau Tiga
Getting Around Sandakan
Travelling around Sabah today isn’t as difficult as it was, thanks to transportation services like Grab.
Suppose you’re going to the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre. Note that you can take a tour or go there by yourself. I was shocked to see the cost of the local tours. If you find the tours expensive, you could spend a night or two in Sandakan and take a local bus to the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre. It’s cheaper that way. Spending more time in Sandakan also allows you to enjoy the city and everything it has to offer!
Would I Visit Sandakan and Kota Kinabalu Again?
Overall, my first trip to Sabah was enjoyable.
I would visit Sandakan and Kota Kinabalu again. As mentioned earlier, I made a quick trip to KK in 2021. I wouldn’t mind visiting all the places I visited again, except the crocodile farm in Sandakan.
