Japan

Exploring Shima: Kashiwaya Ryokan

Updated on November 5, 2026November 5, 2026

Japan is a popular Asian destination, best known for its stunning natural landscapes, unique modern and traditional culture, and world-class cuisine. Every time I think about my first trip to Japan two years ago, I feel like returning. A winter or an autumn getaway sounds like a good idea, and I am thinking of staying somewhere quiet, nestled in nature, and with an onsen – Kashiwaya Ryokan fits the bill.

Kashiwaya Ryokan is a Japanese inn in Shima in Gunma Prefecture. Nestled in a quiet town surrounded by trees and overlooking the Shima River, Kashiwaya Ryokan is perfect for anyone looking to relax in a traditional Japanese-style inn with private onsens and a phenomenal dining experience.

Does that sound enticing to you? Keep reading, and I’ll tell you more about it. Get your coffee ready because this is going to be a long post! 😁

About Kashiwaya Ryokan

Shima is an absolutely beautiful place in Japan. It’s only 3 hours away from Tokyo. Take that road trip, and you will be glad you did so.

Shima is home to hot springs. Hot springs offer many health benefits, and they’re especially great in the cold season. You can enjoy hot springs at a Japanese-style inn known as a ryokan.

Kashiwaya Ryokan is one that I highly recommend.

The inn has received many positive reviews from local and foreign tourists, including me! It’s exceptionally comfortable and well-maintained. The property has a minimalist and intentional design, which makes it so inviting the minute you step in. Plus, the inn is tattoo-friendly. So, don’t worry if your body is full of art and colours.

The Ryokan Has Amazing Private Onsens

Kashiwaya Ryokan has free public and private onsens. Some rooms (like KAME and HANA rooms) have their own onsens. But they don’t look as fancy as the free private onsens, in my opinion. Still, having an in-room onsen is awesome – you can chill in the water as long as you like.

The three free private onsens at Kashiwaya Ryokan are as follows:

• TSUKI-no-yu: This onsen was named after the moon. “Tsuki” means moon. That said, guests can expect to enjoy some moonlight at this onsen.
• SAKURA-no-yu: This onsen was named after cherry blossoms. “Sakura” means cherry blossoms. That said, guests can expect to enjoy the sight of cherry blossoms in springtime.
• KAEDE-no-yu: This onsen was named after maples. “Kaede” means maple. That said, guests can expect to see the change of colour in maple leaves when autumn comes.

As you might have guessed already (based on the descriptions and photos above), the free private onsens at Kashiwaya Ryokan – located on the second floor – are open-air, meaning you can see the sky and trees.

How romantic! 🥰

I have only visited the first two. Perhaps I’ll try all three next time. Sounds like a good plan.

I wouldn’t be surprised if guests with in-room onsens were also tempted to use the three free private onsens mentioned above.

Those free private onsens were absolutely gorgeous and well-maintained. I was so thrilled to have a private onsen – because I was too shy for public onsens. I never felt like I needed to compete with other guests for the onsens. The onsens were always vacant when I needed them.

Now, if you don’t mind soaking naked with strangers, there are two large common baths (public onsens) on the first floor. I didn’t go there because I was shy. Perhaps I’ll give it a go next time.

All guests must follow onsen etiquette, which includes cleaning their bodies before entering the bath and tying their hair up first. Getting drunk in the baths is a huge no-no. You shouldn’t bring any glass into the onsens, either.

Reminder: You must be naked to enter any onsen. No swimwear is allowed.

The Room With Balcony Is a Great Option

The property has 14 guestrooms. Each room has a unique name. I forgot what mine was called, but you can see it in this post. I stayed in a standard room with a deck. From my room, I could see the Shima River. Hearing the river flowing was music to my ears.

The room came with a tatami floor (straw mat floor) and an in-room toilet. For sleeping, I had a Japanese-style bed (futon). It was comfortable. There was also a small round table and zabuton (Japanese cushions). One thing that stood out in the room was a black dial telephone. I have lived long enough to have grown up with such an antique. How nostalgic!

Other essentials were provided, including a television, a water boiler, mugs, a mini fridge, WiFi and more. The sliding door leading to the deck had thick curtains to keep out sunlight.

It was so peaceful at night. It didn’t matter the time of day; the inn was always quiet. My room was near the stairs. Even so, I barely heard people walking. All the guests were considerate.

I really liked my room. But I’ll probably get a room with an in-room onsen in the future just for the experience. There’s also a large room with a foot bath, which looks just as tempting.

Note: Japanese tea is available. Feel free to make it.

The Dining Experience Is Exceptional

Kashiwaya Ryokan offers dinner and breakfast. Guests can choose between Japanese-style or Western-style. I wanted the full Japanese experience, so I went with the first option.

I had both dinner and breakfast, and they were phenomenal. I want more!

At Kashiwaya Ryokan, guests can enjoy Japanese-style cuisine (Kaiseki cuisine) for dinner, which involves a traditional multi-course meal. The meals are chosen by the chef. Now, doesn’t that make you feel special?

All guests will enjoy the same course menu. There are seasonal dishes. The establishment also serves alcohol. Note that drinks you order are charged extra.

I had sake at dinner. It was good.

The desserts served at dinner were quite nice. They were not over-the-top, but they were delicious. I remember them being not too sweet – just perfect.

Breakfast was good. But for a small eater like me (well, sometimes I can be a chowhound), it was pretty heavy. The breakfast included soup, fruits, rice, some protein, vegetables, and tea. Like at dinner, a clean, wet hot towel was provided at breakfast. And of course, chopsticks were used for eating.

Overall, my favourite dishes from my dining experience at Kashiwaya Ryokan were beef on hot stones, sashimi, pickled vegetables, chawanmushi, and salmon. The rice dish was delicious, too.

I wished I could eat more of those scrumptious beef pieces. They were so delightful. I liked how tender and juicy they were. Having beef served on hot stones was definitely a new experience for me. 

I remember being handed a card about the beef type and where it was sourced. That was very thoughtful. I believed I had wagyu beef. Wagyu beef is a luxurious beef known for its web-like marbling. As expected, it melted in my mouth. I do hope to have it again when I return.

Now, I must say that I was stuffed. I ate to my heart’s content. But I probably ate too much. The dinner, especially, was a lot! I shouldn’t complain. Food like that doesn’t come by often.

I was glad that the dessert was simple. It wasn’t heavy. By the time I was almost done with dinner, I was already tempted to call it a day. But wait, there was still some food left.

Fortunately, when I couldn’t finish my rice, the staff member who served me at dinner gave me a brilliant idea. He showed me how to turn leftover rice into rice balls (onigiri). Making rice balls – that was a first for me. We made some together. He told me to keep them for later. Thanks to him, I learned something new. Arigatoo gozaimasu!

Note: You can choose your dinner time during check-in. Mine started at 6:45 pm. For breakfast, I chose the 9 am slot. If you’re not an early bird and don’t want to wake up for breakfast, you can have brunch at Kashiwaya Cafe or Shima Terrace instead. Vegan options are also available.

Kashiwaya Ryokan Has Excellent Customer Service

The customer service deserves an award. During my visit, everyone at the inn was very welcoming. I have fond memories of the inn’s exceptional service. The receptionist was helpful and cheerful. As you may already know by now, I had a blast at dinner and breakfast.

Dinner was my favourite time of the day at the inn. Every table had a staff member assigned to it.

My server was a good-looking young chap with nice hair. He was super friendly and wasn’t shy about holding a conversation. I thought his English was pretty good. He was so approachable – like a friendly next-door neighbour. And he looked like he enjoyed work. Yep, that’s how I remember him. What an amazing personality. I believe I still remember his name.

Then, there was a female staff member who was kind enough to hand me information about the nearest laundry. She said she would get back to me the next day, and she really did. She went the extra mile to write the information on a piece of paper and explained it thoroughly. She spoke English as well. I was pleased by how proactive she was.

Getting to Kashiwaya Ryokan

Kashiwaya Ryokan is 3 hours from Tokyo. I had my own transport, so getting there was easy. Parking near the property is limited, so keep that in mind if you plan to drive.

You can come by bus from Tokyo. There’s a shuttle bus from Nakanojo station that can drop you off at the ryokan.

By the way, Kashiwaya Ryokan has a package that includes a direct round-trip service from Tokyo, a room, dinner, and breakfast. The bus departs from Tokyo Yaesu Street. An extra charge applies for a round trip. Please visit the inn’s website for more details.

Address: 3829 Shima Nakanjo-town Agatuma-gun Gunma 377-0601 Japan

When Should I Visit Kashiwaya Ryokan?

You can visit Kashiwaya Ryokan whenever it suits you. I came at the end of spring and spent two nights. The weather was cool; hence, soaking in the onsen was really nice. I recommend visiting the inn in the cooler months. Come in autumn if you want the KAEDE-no-yu experience.

The photos above show what the view from my room was like. Even though the room was next to the road, I didn’t have any problem with noise. The town is generally very quiet. That said, I slept well. There’s no reason to feel stressed out at this place!

Now, if you want to come in summer, that’s fine, too. The ryokan will be open, nonetheless. On summer days, guests can use air-conditioning if the weather ever gets too hot.

Keep in mind that the ryokan can get fully booked depending on the time of year. Yes, Kashiwaya Ryokan is hot stuff! So plan your stay as early as you can if possible. That way, you can secure the room and the date you want.

Are There Rules I Need To Follow at the Ryokan?

Yes, as guests, there are rules to follow at the ryokan. The inn requires all guests to wear a yukata (Japanese-style robe) and indoor slippers within the premises. You should also remove your indoor slippers before walking on the tatami in your room.

I wore a blue yukata during my stay. It was a little too big for me, but I still looked good in it. And it was very comfortable to wear. Choose any yukata you like to pair with your pyjamas.

You can find yukata options on the shelf outside your room. Change your yukata during your stay. The yukata comes with an obi belt, which can be found in the closet. Tie it around your waist.

You will also find a Chabaori (outer robe) that you can wear over your yukata from autumn to spring. I wore a Chabaori on top of my yukata to dinner.

Guests are also given a small drawstring bag to store their belongings when they enter the onsens. You will find the bag in your closet. The bag has an interior plastic attached to it, keeping your belongings dry. I still have mine to this day.

As for fresh towels and yukatas, they are always available when needed.

What Can I Do Near Kashiwaya Ryokan?

You can find many nice attractions near Kashiwaya Ryokan. Walk around the area and enjoy the scenery – this alone can take hours, so expect a day well spent. Alternatively, you can cycle around. Kashiwaya Ryokan offers free bicycle rental.

Fun fact: Kashiwaya Ryokan provides its guests with a pamphlet called the Shima Onsen Kashiwaya Ryokan Passport. The pamphlet includes information on local attractions and activities, dining spots, and onsen tips.

Have Brunch at Kashiwaya Cafe

During your stay in Shima, stop by Kashiwaya Cafe, operated by Kashiwaya. The building, dating from the early Showa period, has been renovated. Kashiwaya Cafe is an excellent option for coffee lovers. Browse through their menu of rice, sweets, curry, ramen, and more. 

The cafe is about 1.5 km from Kashiwaya Ryokan. It opens from 10 am to 5 pm. The cafe takes its last order at 4:30 pm. Note that the cafe is closed on Thursday. 

WiFi is available at the cafe, especially convenient for anyone working on the go. The cafe accepts cash and credit card payments. The nearest bus stop is Kirinokidaira.

Satisfy Your Sweet Tooth at Shima Terrace

Also operated by Kashiwaya, Shima Terrace is a lovely dining spot, especially if you’re looking to enjoy some pizzas. It’s a pizzeria, cafe, and bakery, located in the heart of Shima Onsen District. And it’s not far from Kashiwaya Cafe.

It was cold and rainy outside when I visited Shima Terrace. Stopping by the cafe was a good excuse to escape the rain and pamper myself with some chocolate treats. I was very pleased with my order. Customer service was good, too.

Shima Terrace is 1.5 km from Kashiwaya Ryokan. It opens from 11 am to 6 pm. Customers can place their orders until 5:30 pm. The cafe takes its day off every Tuesday. There’s free WiFi. The Internet signal was good. Customers can pay by cash or credit card. The nearest bus stop is Kirinokidaira.

Take a Stroll in Shima Onsen Town

After brunch, I explored Shima Onsen Town. I even got myself small souvenirs. Please bring enough cash with you, as most of the shops only accept cash. Here’s a list of places to visit (recommended on Kashiwaya Ryokan’s pamphlet):

• Washinoya: A store selling alcohol, snacks and daily goods. You can find all kinds of stuff here, including instant noodles, ice cream, milk, magazines, and more. Check out their “Onsen-shu” (hot spring sake), which is made with ingredients from Shima Onsen.
• Yamaguchi Foot Bath: An onsen footbath along the Shima River. It’s closed in winter (late November to early April). Free to visit.
• Arayu – Kirinokidaira and Ochiai Street: An old-fashioned, nostalgic Japanese onsen town with a quiet and relaxed atmosphere
• Shio-no-yu Drinking Onsen Station: A place where you can drink onsen water directly from the source. The water is said to be good for gastrointestinal issues.

• Fugetsudo: A Japanese store that sells local sweets, like onsen manju and their signature confection called the
• “Yumemakura”.
• Nakamuraya: A place for buying sake
• Kawara-no-yu Onsen: A public onsen that welcomes visitors anytime between 9 am and 2 pm. Free entry.
• Takadaya: A Japanese store that sells local sweets, like onsen manju and a special confection called “Oiran Furou” 
• Sekizenkan: The oldest inn in the area, which inspired the ryokan seen in Ghibli’s “Spirited Away”
• Yanagiya: An amusement facility for playing “Smart Ball”, which is a retro game similar to Pachinko. The place has been operating since 1966.
• Yuzuriha Foot Bath and Drinking Onsen Station: A free-to-enter place where people can enjoy a foot bath while drinking onsen water. You can get the onsen water from a dedicated drinking fountain there.
• Hinatami Yukushi Temple: A historical building in Japan dating from the Muromachi period. The temple is a National Important Cultural Property. It takes a short walk from the Shima Onsen bus stop to get there. 

Note: There are parking spaces available in town where you can park your vehicle. Finding a good spot can be tricky, though. Fortunately, I didn’t have any problem getting one during my visit.

Do Shima’s Nature Walk

Shima has a lot to offer. Here are some interesting places to explore:

• Oketsu Potholes: Also known as Shima no Oketsu, these potholes are natural rock formations found at the Shima River. These potholes were created by thousands of years of erosion. There are eight main potholes, and they all come in different sizes. There’s a local bus stop just 60 metres away from the entrance to the potholes.
• Momotaro Waterfall: It’s uncertain how the waterfall got its name. But it is said that the waterfall may have gotten its name due to the shape of its falling water that resembles a peach.
• Oizumi Waterfall: While it isn’t a big waterfall, it features a vividly blue, deep pool. The waterfall is not far from the road. It takes a short hike down a hill to get to the waterfall from the main road.  

• Ogura Waterfall: This waterfall is known for its thread-like waterfall appearance. A one-way walk from the Arayu District via a mountain trail may take about an hour.  
• Maya Waterfall: Standing at 20 metres tall, this waterfall is located in the forest of the Hinatami District. It requires about a 40-minute walk through a mountain trail to get there. The waterfall is tied to a legend of a young girl named Maya who fell in love with a young man in the woods, and a story of a devoted couple who came to visit with a wish to have a child. 
• Okushima Lake: Beautiful year-round, this lake features blue-turquoise water; the lake is at its bluest between April and May. I like how it looks in winter, too, with a snowy mountain view as its main highlight.

I especially loved visiting Oizumi Waterfall and Okushima Lake.

As mentioned earlier, Oizumi Waterfall features blue water. The water looks very clean, too. It was raining when I visited, and even in such weather, the waterfall looked amazing. The atmosphere at Okushima Lake was one I won’t forget. It was surreal and peaceful. These two places definitely left me with some good memories.

I am not a fan of crowded places. So I was so pleased with my trip to Shima sometime in late spring 2024. For example, I had the chance to enjoy Oizumi Waterfall without strangers around. It was like that for most of the places I visited in Shima, thankfully.

Note: If you visit Maya Falls, Ogura Falls, or Fudo Falls, be sure to ring a bell. These places are off the beaten path, and they have bears. Ringing a bell will help you avoid them.

Get To Know the Town’s Useful Spots

Apart from tourist attractions, you should also know other useful spots in town.

There’s the Shima Clinic if you need medical assistance. And there’s the Shima Post Office if you want to mail a letter or a postcard. The Shima Onsen Association is also important – this is where you can get tourist info, bike rentals, and an ATM. And if you need police assistance, there’s a police station in the area.

There’s Kirinokidaira free parking if you’re driving. But if you’re taking the bus, then you should know where to find the Shima Onsen Bus Stop. That’s where highway buses and local buses arrive and depart. The bus stop is near the Kawara-no-yu free onsen bath.

Take Note of Shima Onsen Tips

The pamphlet explains some interesting facts about Shima Onsen. For example:

• Shima Onsen was founded between the 8th and 10th centuries.
• When written in Kanji, Shima Onsen means 40,000. That’s because Shima Onsen is believed to be so good that it can cure 40,000 diseases. Now I have more reasons to revisit.
• Shima is home to 35 ryokans and 30 shops and restaurants.
• There are beautiful waterfalls in the area where the water is blue.
• Many of the buildings are historically old. For example, the Sekizenkan is a very old ryokan.

Note: If you have a car, drive as much as you can in the area. The drive will be quite romantic. Also, keep in mind that Shima is packed with activities. Despite having stayed in Shima for 3 days and 2 nights, I couldn’t cover all the activities, even when I had a car. There simply wasn’t enough time for me to do all of them. That’s why a second visit is a must. I look forward to my next visit!

Extra Information To Know

Here are some useful things to know for a smoother stay at Kashiwaya Ryokan:

• The inn’s check-in time is at 3 pm. Guests can check in at 5 pm at the latest (if dinner is included) or 9 pm if dinner is not included. Check-out is at 12 pm.
• Cancellation fees will apply 3 days before the date of stay, regardless of the reason.
• The front desk operates from 7:30 am to 9:30 pm. Don’t call the front desk after 9:30 pm (unless it’s an emergency).
• For assistance, dial 9 (Yes, use the black telephone in your room) for the front desk.
• There are no lifts/elevators at the ryokan. The inn is a two-storey building with stairs.
• Don’t smoke on the premises. Smoke in a designated smoking space.
• Onsens are not available during cleaning hours (11 am to 3 pm).
• Each onsen has bath towels.
• The private onsens operate from 3 pm to 1 am, and from 5 am to 11 am.
• There are two big communal onsens (one for men and one for women) on the first floor. They open from 3 pm to 11 am. 
• The inn’s shower facilities in the private open-air onsens may not be available in winter.
• If you’re staying for two nights, note that the inn staff will not make your bed (futon) on the second night. They will only change your towels and toiletries on the second day.
• Free coffee and tea are served at the library between 7 am and 9 pm. 

Why Choose Kashiwaya Ryokan?

Shima has several traditional Japanese inns, Kashiwaya Ryokan being one. I highly recommend choosing Kashiwaya Ryokan because it offers stellar customer service, which is paramount for a smooth and memorable stay.

English and Japanese are used at Kashiwaya Ryokan, making communication, be it for reservations or interactions at the inn, easier. The inn is also tattoo-friendly, so guests with body inks don’t have to worry about theirs. No wonder the inn has many overseas visitors.

Of course, other reasons for the inn’s popularity are its location, outstanding dinner and breakfast, and peaceful atmosphere. This is the perfect place for anyone who needs to de-stress. If I could stay for a week, I would – that’s how much I loved the place.

Note that all opinions expressed in this post are my own.

Final Thoughts

Kashiwaya Ryokan is an excellent option for those looking to stay in a traditional Japanese-style inn. The breakfast and dinner are exceptional, and so is the customer service. I came in springtime, and even though the weather was cold, the ryokan kept me warm. I especially adored the private open-air onsens. The inn is tattoo-friendly and is quite popular amongst overseas tourists.

I would like to express my gratitude to all the staff at Kashiwaya Ryokan for their hard work and attention to detail. The inn was cosy, and every second spent there is worth cherishing.

Note: It’s crazy that it took me two years before I finally had the time to write this article. Life may be busy, but there’s always time for a good review. I’m sharing the good stuff. That’s time well spent!