Franz ElizI love going to night markets. And Asia is full of them. Thank goodness for that. I always look for night markets whenever I travel locally and abroad. It’s something I enjoy doing, especially with friends and family.
When I visited Kota Kinabalu in 2023, I visited a night market called Anjung Kinabalu, also known as AKINA Night Market. Don’t skip it, especially if you’re staying in the Kota Kinabalu Waterfront area. My hotel, Celyn Hotel, was about a 5-minute walk away.
Keep reading.
A Lively Night Market with a Wide Variety of Seafood
I loved how lively the Anjung Kinabalu night market was. I remember it best for the wide variety of seafood it offers, like fish, crabs, cuttlefish, prawns, and more. I came with my friends and family. All of us are fond of seafood. We walked for a bit to see the options we had.
There were many ways to enjoy the seafood – grilled and barbecue being the most popular. Ready-to-order dishes were also available at the market.
In the end, we sat down at one of the tables to have dinner. We bought some fish, shrimp, grilled cuttlefish, and white rice. The cuttlefish cost RM70. I thought it was a little overpriced. But considering the size, it might seem fair. Most importantly, it was tasty. There were 5 of us, and we struggled to finish the cuttlefish.
My friend Jess also ordered ‘latok’, which is a kind of seaweed. Latok is widely eaten in Sabah. It looks like tiny grapes or green caviar. It pops in the mouth. How quirky. In terms of taste, it is briny and salty. Jess suggested eating it with rice to tone down its saltiness. I adored the flavour.
Jess also ordered umai, which is similar to ceviche. Unlike ceviche, the umai I had at the market was prepared with hot boiling water. Many people from my hometown are fans of umai. The umai we eat back home is “cooked” in citrus juice. I don’t think I’ve ever had umai before coming to Anjung Kinabalu. In Peru, I ate plenty of ceviche. I am a huge fan of ceviche. I just loved how it’s prepared and served.
I’m glad that the umai I had at Anjung Kinabalu was delicious. I now have positive memories of the dish. I also enjoyed it with latok and some chillies. They made a pretty interesting combination.
Loud and Enthusiastic Vendors
The vendors were enthusiastic and loud. Some were calling out to customers aggressively, which was what I slightly disliked. For example, one vendor held my wrist and pulled me to buy his seafood. Okay, that was a distasteful move. I politely turned him down and walked away. There was no need for any confrontation.
Note that the market has plenty of dining tables, so don’t worry about getting a place to sit. Of course, where you sit depends on what you want to eat.
While exploring the market, keep your belongings close to you. The market can get pretty hectic and crowded, allowing for potential pickpocketing. Stay alert.
Interesting Fresh and Dry Produce
Many fresh fruits and vegetables are sold at the market as well. Many customers like having fresh coconuts to accompany their meals. I had my meal with a can of Coca-Cola instead. Coconut is obviously better, so I hope to make better choices next time for the sake of my health.
The market also has all kinds of dry produce, including my favourites, dried shrimp and dried anchovies. Dried cumi cumi is also a local favourite. There are many snacks as well. Some of Sabah’s popular snacks are amplang, crispy peanuts, and kuih cincin.
Convenient Hand Washing Pots
If you see a water pot on the table, please don’t mistake it for a drinking water pot. The pot is meant for washing your hands.
I’m aware that this may not be obvious to most foreigners. Even some Malaysians sometimes mistake it for a drinking water pot. Hand washing pots are common in Malaysia. You’ll see them in many Malay restaurants. Hand washing pots come in handy, especially at places like night markets.
Small Children Approaching Customers
While we were enjoying our dinner, a small child approached us to sell us snacks. I was told that the child was likely Filipino. There are many like her at the market – many being undocumented. While many of these children do informal labour, some ask for money straight up. We helped out the child a bit. I remember sharing some food with her. She was delighted.
I’d say it’s better to offer them food rather than giving them money. But hey, it’s just a personal opinion. People can do their part wherever and however they see fit.
Haggling at the Market
You should always ask for the best prices when shopping anywhere around the world. Sure, not all sellers tolerate bargains. But most do. There is a time and place for haggling. Anjung Kinabalu is one where it’s okay to do so. Just don’t overdo it; other people have to make a living, too.
Now, some people have noted that this night market is a tourist trap. There’s some truth to it. There will always be vendors who will take advantage of tourists. But not all of them do that. Of course, it’s not a surprise if most tourists are ignorant about the real prices of things. They’re not locals after all.
So, to avoid feeling scammed, get a local friend. If that’s not an option, have a nice chit-chat with the locals about the prices of things. They could be your hotel receptionist or the average Joe passing by. Otherwise, there’s nothing you can’t ask Google these days.
Now, let’s get back to the cuttlefish. Was it overpriced? Someone, please tell me. Whether or not it was fairly priced, all I knew was that I ate to my heart’s content. I’d like to thank my aunt for the cuttlefish.
Now, are you ready to test your haggling skills? There are many beautiful handicrafts that might catch your attention. Get them.
Address: Jln Tun Fuad Stephens, Pusat Bandar Kota Kinabalu, 88000 Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia
Summary
Anjung Kinabalu night market is a must-visit in Kota Kinabalu, especially if you like night markets.
Be careful when walking at the market as the floors can get wet and slippery. If local vendors harass you to support their business, turn them down politely if you’re not interested. Small children selling snacks and trinkets – some begging for money – are a common sight at the market.
While haggling is okay, avoid overdoing it. Don’t forget to bring back some souvenirs. And watch out for pickpockets.
